Exploded view - clutch unit

1. - Flywheel
   • Removing and installing
   • check that the centring pins are correctly seated
   • Contact surface for clutch lining must be free of grooves, oil and grease
2. - Clutch plate
   • Equivalent
   • Centralising
3. - Thrust plate
   • Removing and installing
   • Checking ends of diaphragm spring
   • Check spring connections and riveted connections
4. - Bolt
   • Equivalent
   • Loosen and tighten in small steps diagonally
   • M 6: 13 Nm
   • M 7: 20 Nm

Clutch: removing and installing

Special tools and workshop equipment required

• Counterhold - 3067-
• Centring chuck - 3190 A-
• Torque wrenches - V.A.G 1331-
• Grease for clutch plate splines
• For grease allocation, refer to - Electronic parts catalogue (ETKA) .

Removing

• Gearbox removed
• Attach counterhold tool - 3067- before loosening bolts.

To prevent the pressure plate from becoming distorted during removal (causes clutch grab when driving off), always keep to the following procedure when unbolting the pressure plate:

• Loosen all bolts in small steps and diagonally.
• Remove clutch press and clutch plate.

Installing

Note

• Select correct clutch plate and pressure plate by checking engine code.
• Clean input shaft splines and, on used clutch plates, hub splines. Remove corrosion and apply only a very thin coat of clutch plate spline grease to splines. Then move the clutch plate on the input shaft from side to side, until the hub moves smoothly on the shaft. Eliminate excess grease.
• The pressure plates are greased and protected against corrosion.

  With the exception of the friction surface for the clutch plate, the clutch pressure plate must not be cleaned. Otherwise the working life of the clutch will be significantly reduced.

• The friction surface of the clutch pressure plate and the flywheel must be cleaned (degreased) thoroughly.
• If the clutch has burnt out, thoroughly clean the gearbox housing in area of clutch and parts of the engine facing the gearbox in order to prevent odours.
• Clutch plate linings must make full contact with flywheel and friction surface of clutch pressure plate. Only then insert securing bolts.
• Tighten securing bolts in small steps diagonally in order not to damage centring holes of pressure plate and centring pins of flywheel .
• Check whether dowel sleeves for centring engine/gearbox have been fitted in cylinder block, install if necessary.
• If dowel sleeves are not fitted, difficulties shifting gears, clutch problems and possible noises from the gearbox (rattling of gears which are not engaged) could occur.

• Installation location of clutch plate: labelling "gearbox end" or spring cage is aligned to pressure plate.

Checking ends of diaphragm spring

• Wear to half the thickness of the diaphragm spring -arrows- is permitted.

Check spring connection and riveted fastenings.

• Check spring connection between thrust plate and cover for cracks and make sure rivet fastenings are seated tightly.
• If pressure plate has damaged springs or loose rivet connections -arrows-, it must be renewed.

Check extension springs and riveting

I - Springs OK

• Slight kinking on the outside -arrows A- is normal on production parts.

II - Extension spring damaged

• Renew clutch pressure plate if springs are broken or badly bent -arrow B-.
• Check spring connections -arrows A- for damage and make sure rivet fastenings -arrows B- are seated tightly.
• Renew clutch pressure plate if spring connections are broken or badly bent, or if riveting is loose.

• Check that riveting -arrows B- is secure at all springs -arrows A-.
• Consecutively tighten all bolts to final setting in clockwise direction.
• Renew clutch pressure plate if riveting -arrow B- is loose.

Checking metal ring

• Check that sheet metal ring in pressure plate -arrow- is not damaged.
• Renew clutch pressure plate if metal ring is broken.

• To centre the clutch plate the adapter - 3190 A- must be used.
• Tighten all bolts diagonally and in small steps.
• Installing gearbox

Specified torques

• Pressure plate on flywheel